- Drafting of a Basic Skirt Pattern Measurement in full scale;
- Pattern Adaptation in ¼ scale; Tracing & marking up process;
- Complete pattern with the grainline, notches, tolerance & seam allowances in¼ scale;
Measurement (size-10)
|
Skirt length |
20" |
|
Front waist arc |
6¾" |
|
Back waist arc |
6¼" |
|
Dart placement |
3¼" |
|
Front hip arc |
9" |
|
Back hip arc |
9½" |
|
Center front hip depth |
9" |
|
Center back hip depth
|
8¾" |
|
Side hip depth |
9¼" |
Figure 1
Ø A
to B = Skirt length = 20"
Ø A
to C = Center front hip depth= 9"
Ø A
to D= Back hip arc + ½ inch (ease) = 9½" + ½"= 10"
Ø Square
out from A, C and B
Ø Draw
center back line. Label E and F.
Ø E
to G = Center back hip depth = 8¾"
Ø A to H= Front hip arc + ½ inch (ease)= 9"+ ½"= 9½"
Draw center front line Label J and I.
Ø D
to K= Back waist arc + ¼" (ease) + 2 " for dart intake= 6¼" + ¼"
+ 2" = 8½"
Ø D
to L= Dart placement= 3¼"
Ø Mark
first dart 1" from L, Mark dart space 1 ¼" and mark 1" for
second dart.
Ø H
to M=Front waist arc + ¼" (and add) + 1" for dart intake = 6¾"+¼+1"=8"
Ø H
to N = Dart placement= 3¼"
Ø Mark
first dart ½" from N, Mark dart space 1 ¼" and mark ½" for second
dart.
Square up & down from K and M (½ & ½)
Figure-3
Ø C to P= Side hip depth = 9¼"
Backside seam
Ø P to G= Back waist curve
Ø C to Q= Side hip depth =9¼"
Front side seam
Ø Q to H= Front waist curve
Figure-4
Ø Back darts: locate centers of each dart intake and square down 5½ inches. Draw dart legs from dart points to curve line of the waist. True dart legs by adding to the shorter legs, and blend to the curve the waistline.
Ø Front darts: Repeat the process with the dart legs 3½ inches long.
Pattern Making for
Fashion Design (Third Edition) – Helen Joseph Armstrong. All rights reserved.
