A. Shrinkage Test Procedure:
Fabric swatch minimum 35 × 35 cm
Need to overlock (3TOL) the edge of the fabric swatch
Mark 30 × 30 cm by a permanent marker
or stitch with contrast color thread.
Wash the sample according to buyer requirements (or hand or machine wash cold wash) and
Finish, according to the buyers standard (No squeeze or twist reshape, lay flat to dry; avoid direct sunlight,cool/low iron if needed).
We can estimate fabric shrinkage percentage and adjust any pattern
by using subsequent simple steps for the following measurements-
|
Before
wash |
length
30 cm |
Sl. |
Measurement
|
Size
(S) |
|
Before
wash |
width
30 cm |
1. |
Front
body length |
63
cm |
|
After
wash |
length
29 cm |
2. |
Sleeve
length |
21 cm |
|
After
wash |
width
29.5 cm |
3. |
Half
chest (full chest) |
53
cm (106 cm) |
|
|
4. |
Sleeve
width |
18
cm |
|
|
5. |
Hem
|
2
cm |
||
|
6. |
Allowance
|
1
cm |
||
B. Fabric Shrinkage:
Length:
Fabric length before wash = 30 cm
Fabric length after wash =
29 cm
Now shrinkage = (30 -29) = 1
cm
For, 30 cm shrinkage = 1 cm
1 cm shrinkage =
1/30 cm
100 cm shrinkage
= 1 ×100 = 3.33 cm
30
Length Shrinkage = 3.33%
Width:
Fabric width before wash = 30 cm
Fabric width after wash = 29.5 cm
Now shrinkage = 30 – 29.5 = 0.5 cm
For, 30
cm shrinkage = 0.5 cm
1 cm shrinkage = 0.5/30
100 cm shrinkage = 0.5
× 100 = 1.67 cm
30
Width
Shrinkage = 1.67 %
So, Fabric Shrinkage:
Length
Shrinkage = 3.33 %
Width Shrinkage = 1.67 %
C. Pattern Adjustment:
Front and back draft or block
|
Sl. |
Measurement |
Size (S) |
|
1. |
Full body length |
Front body
length + hem + allowance = 63+2+1 = 66
cm |
|
2. |
Full sleeve
length |
Sleeve length
+ hem + allowance = 21+2+1 = 24 cm |
|
3. |
Half chest width (front) *Full chest 106 cm ( front + back) |
Front chest
width + allowances = 53+1+1= 55 cm |
|
4. |
Full sleeve
width |
Sleeve
width + allowances = 18 +1+1= 20 cm |
Front
Full body length with shrinkage
|
1. Full body length
|
66 cm |
The
block adjustable length with 3.33% shrinkage
=66 + 3.33%
=66 + 2.19
=68.19 or 68.2 cm
Half chest width with shrinkage
|
3. Half chest width |
55 cm |
The block adjustable width with 1.67 % shrinkage
=55 + 1.67
%
=55 + 0.9185
=55.9185 cm
or 55.92 cm
Sleeve
Sleeve length with shrinkage
|
2. Full sleeve length |
24 cm |
The block adjustable length with 3.33% shrinkage
= 24 + 3.33%
= 24 + 0.799
= 24.799 or 24.8 cm
Full Sleeve width with shrinkage
|
4. Full sleeve
width |
20 cm |
The
block adjustable width with 1.67 % shrinkage
= 20 + 1.67
%
= 20 + 0.33
= 20.33 cm
