Woven Fabric Parameters-
a. Fabric construction
- EPI (Ends per inch) and PPI (Picks per inch)
- Yarn count
(warp count and weft count)
- Fabric width (higher than marker width)
b. Crimp percentage (warp crimp and weft crimp)
c. Fabric structure or
Design (Plain, Twill, Satin etc.)
d. Fabric weight (gm/m or oz/yds)
e. Fiber composition (CO,
PC, CVC, CV, WO, PET, PA, PAN, EL)
f. Fabric pattern/ Finish (solid dyed, yarn-dyed, mercerized etc.)
For example, here we have discus a 100% Cotton Canvas Trouser Fabrics analysis to calculate yarn consumption and for finish fabric cost.
Cotton Canvas Trouser
a. Fabric Construction
- EPI (Ends per inch) and PPI (Picks per inch)
- Yarn count (warp count and weft count)
- Fabric width (Higher than marker width)
Step 1: To find out EPI and PPI at the first collect fabric sample
Step 2: Lay cloth pattern on a flat desk and get rid of all creases with the aid of the hand press.
Step 3: Mark arrows for warp and weft course (if perceptible)
Step 4: Make a rectangular of one square inch on the pattern.
Step 5: Mark, a rectangular of 1 × 1 inch on the material by pen or pencil.
Step 6: Try to marks parallel to warp and weft direction.
Step 7: Cut at least five squares from a significant area of the pattern to calculate common EPI and PPI.
Step 8: Count Number of ends and Picks inside these squares.
Step 9: In case yarns are thicker and seen with open eyes remember numbers of Ends and choices the use of a needle or a pin.
In case, yarns in the fabric are no longer seen and now not feasible to count number with open eyes, pull out warp and weft yarns one by way of one from the reduce squares.
Using the equal method, discover EPI and PPI from all five samples and calculate common EPI and PPI.
- Yarn count (warp count and weft count)
Warp Yarn count
Warp Yarn Length = (7.3 cm x 15)/100 meter [15 scraps yarn, 1 yarn length=7.3 cm]
= 1.095 m
Warp Yarn Weight = 0.034 gm
Ne = L × w / W × l
= 1.095 m × 453.6 gm / 0.034 gm × (840 × 0.91 m)
= 19.09
So, Ne = 19
Here,
L = 1.095 m and W = 0.034 gm
w = 1 lb = 453.6 gm and l= 840 yds = 840 x 0.91 m
Weft Yarn count
Weft Yarn
Length = (8 cm × 15)/100 meter [15
scraps yarn, 1 yarn length=8 cm]
=1.2 m
Weft Yarn Weight = 0.037 gm
Ne = L × w / W × l
Ne = 1.2 m
× 453.6 gm / 0.037 gm × (840 × 0.91 m)
=19.25
Ne = 19
Here,
L=1.095 m and W= 0.034 gm
b. Crimp percentage (warp crimp and weft crimp)
Warp
crimp and Weft crimp
Crimp = (L - p / p) ×100 here, L = yarn length and p = fabric length
Warp Crimp = (7. 2975-7/7) ×100 = 4.25%
Weft Crimp = (8-7.8/7.8) ×100 = 2.56%
c. Fabric structure or Design (Canvas)
Canvas
d. Fabric weight (gm/ m2)
GSM
To
determine approximate GSM (grams per square meters) of a given fabric, we can
use the following formula. It is also
known as conversion formula from fabric construction to fabric
weight.
Fabric GSM
= (EPI/Warp count + PPI/Weft count) × (100+crimp) × 0.2327
GSM = (100/19 + 50/19) × (100+4.25) × 0.2327*
GSM = 191.4 (Lab result)
or
Fabric GSM = (EPI/Warp count + PPI/Weft count) × (100+crimp%) × 0.2327*
GSM = (100/19 + 50/19) × (100+4.25%) × 0.2327
GSM = 183.68 (Theory)
* Here 0.2327 is multiplying factor of GSM
e. Fiber composition
100% Cotton
f. Fabric pattern/ Finish
Solid Dyed
The weight of the warp yarn in the one-yard fabric
Total
weight of warp yarn in the one-yard fabric
= (EPI × Fabric width / 840 × Warp Count) × (100+Crimp)/100
= (100× 58/ 840 ×19) × (100+4.25)/100
= (5800/ 15960) × (100+4.25)/100
= 0.36340.. × 1.0425
= 0.3789 lb
Total weight of
warp yarn in one-yard fabric = 0.3789 lb
The weight of the weft yarn in the one-yard fabric
Total
weight of weft yarn in the one-yard fabric
= (PPI ×
Fabric width/ 840 × Warp Count) × (100+ Crimp)/100
= (50× 36/
840 ×19) × (100+2.56)/100
= (1800/
15960) × 1.0256
= 0.11278...×
1.0256
= 0.1157 lb
Total weight of
weft yarn in one-yard fabric = 0.1157 lb
The
total weight of the yarn in the one-yard fabric
Total yarn weight
= Total weight of warp yarn in one-yard fabric + Total weight of weft yarn in the one-yard fabric
Total weight of warp yarn in one-yard fabric = 0.3789 lb
Total weight of weft yarn in one-yard fabric = 0.1157 lb
Total yarn weight = 0.3789 lb + 0.1157 lb
= 0.4946 lb
Kg = 0.4946 lb x 453.6 gm/1000 gm
= 0.22 kg or 224.35 gm
Price per yard
19/1 yard (warp)
19/1 yard (weft)
Yarn price= US $ 2.5 / kg (approximately)
Total yarn weight per yard = 0.4946 lb
= 0.22 kg
Total yarn price per yard = 0.22 kg x US $ 2.5 / kg
= US $ 0.55
Gray Fabric cost = Yarn cost+ Weaving cost
= US $ 0.55+0.20
= US $ 0.75
Finish Fabric cost = Gray Fabric cost+ Dyeing cost + Finishing cost
= US $ 0.75 + US $ 0.30+ US $ 0.20
= US $ 1.25/yard
Finish Fabric Cost US $ 1.25/yard*
*It may vary and depends on the yarn price, weaving cost, dyeing, finishing and other costs.
? ){kind=link}